| GENERAL INFORMATION |
| Question |
Answer - Try the following |
| RAPIDMASK DOES NOT REQUIRE A WASHOUT STEP. HOW DOES IT WORK? |
During the exposure step, UV light passes through the clear areas of the artwork which changes the color of RapidMask from green to dark blue. These dark blue areas become brittle and are blasted away. Once the blue, brittle areas are removed, glass etching occurs in the usual way.
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| CAN I USE RAPIDMASK FOR FINE HALFTONES SUCH AS PORTRAITS? |
Yes. RapidMask can resolve very fine detail and produce halftones up to 65 dpi. Hafltones should be processed using RapidMask High Detail (2 mil) and 220 Silicon Carbide abrasive. For more information on halftones, please refer to the supplemental guide for RapidMask HD. |
| ARTWORK |
| Question |
Answer - Try the following |
| WHY MUST I USE PHOTO-NEGATIVE ARTWORK INSTEAD OF PHOTO-POSITIVE ARTWORK? |
RapidMask works differently than other films. With this film, clear=blast. When UV light passes through the clear areas of the artwork to expose RapidMask, these areas of your glass or substrate will be etched. The exposed areas of RapidMask are blasted away during sandcarving, while the unexposed areas remain to protect your substrate. |
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| WHAT IS THE BEST ARTWORK TO USE WITH RAPIDMASK? |
Good artwork is required for all photoresist materials. In simple terms, the opaque or black areas of the artwork should be dense with no pinholes. If you have a densitometer which measures the amount of UV light passing through an object, you should have a reading of greater or equal to 3.5 in the opaque/black areas. Typically, this is designated a dmax of 3.5. The clear areas should allow UV light to easily pass through.
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| Vellum is generally not recommended but it can be made to work. If you must use vellum, use good quality material and be sure the above requirements are met. A toner enhancement spray is highly recommended to darken the opaque areas. |
For best results, try our new AccuArt 2 inkjet film. AccuArt 2 is a clear film media that enables you to create a real film negative from a standard inkjet printer.
Artwork should include at least a ¼” black border which will assist in the removal of the carrier sheet and for masking off. |
| EXPOSURE |
Question
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Answer - Try the following |
| HOW DO I KNOW IF RAPIDMASK IS EXPOSED PROPERLY? |
You will need to establish the correct exposure time for your particular exposure unit. This is VERY IMPORTANT. The key to proper exposure for RapidMask is getting enough UV energy into the film so it changes color from green to dark blue where light hits the film and makes it brittle. The key requirement is that the film gets brittle. Follow the "Setting Up Your Exposure Unit" procedure in the RapidMask processing instructions.
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RapidMask is very tolerant to over-exposure, so always error on the side of more exposure rather than less.
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| I FOLLOWED THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR SETTING UP MY EXPOSURE UNIT AND THE FILM TURNS DARK BLUE BUT DOESN'T GET BRITTLE. WHAT'S GOING ON? |
Photopolymer films, like RapidMask, respond to UV light that peaks in the 365 nanometer (nm) range. Even though the color has changed, the film may not be getting the right wavelength of UV light to make it brittle. This can happen when lamps age. They will continue to light, but the output wavelength has shifted, meaning it's time to replace the lamps. |
| Check with your lamp manufacturer to be certain the lamps you are using have a peak output wavelength around 365 nm. |
| Install new lamps and this should correct the problem. |
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| WHICH SIDE OF RAPIDMASK SHOULD I EXPOSE THROUGH? |
Place the printed side of the artwork against the slip sheet (DULL SIDE) of the film.
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| APPLICATION TO SUBSTRATE |
Question
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Answer - Try the following |
| HOW DO I APPLY RAPIDMASK TO MY SUBSTRATE? |
To minimize air entrapment and allow for proper positioning of RapidMask, the “hinge” method is recommended. Clean the substrate using a standard glass cleaner to remove dust and finger prints. Trim any exposed (blue) edges prior to application. Place the RapidMask film slip sheet side down (dull) on the substrate BEFORE removing the slip sheet and position it exactly where it needs to be. Tape along one of the edges using masking tape to hold the film in place. Hinge or flip the film back along the taped edge and remove the slip sheet by placing a piece of tape on one corner and peeling back to reveal the adhesive surface. Carefully move the film back over the substrate, but keep it elevated so it does not prematurely come in contact with the surface. Starting at the taped edge, squeegee the film down on the substrate. Remove the top carrier sheet by placing a piece of tape on one corner and peeling back.
Wet lamination application is recommended when applying halftones. Refer to RapidMask High Detail application in the RapidMask HD user guide. |
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| WHICH SIDE OF RAPIDMASK SHOULD BE APPLIED TO MY GLASS OR SUBSTRATE? |
Always remove the dull slip sheet and apply the adhesive side to the substrate. |
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| WILL RAPIDMASK ADHERE TO ANY SURFACE? |
For applications excluding glass, RapidMask may stain the substrate. The staining appears within 2 hours of film application to substrate. Testing the substrate is highly recommended. Please contact your PhotoBrasive representative with further questions.
Special acrylic instructions: Used alone RapidMask is not a suitable film for use with acrylic substrates. The peel after sandblasting is very difficult and becomes more difficult if the film and substrate are soaked in water. However, if the RapidMask is used in conjunction with BAT (Blastable Adhesive Tape), the peel is greatly improved, especially when the film and substrate are soaked in water. Test all acrylic applications. |
| SANDCARVING |
Question
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Answer - Try the following |
| IT IS TAKING A LONG TIME TO SANDBLAST THROUGH THE RAPIDMASK. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG? |
Most likely, you have underexposed RapidMask. (See FAQ under Exposure)
Your pressure may be too low:
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High Detail |
High Tack |
| Pressure-pot |
20 – 30 psi |
30- 40 psi |
| Siphon |
40 – 60 psi |
60- 80 psi |
Your grit may be too old. Aluminum oxide tends to lose its cutting ability more quickly than silicon carbide. Silicon carbide 180 or finer grit is recommended for most decorative sandcarving.
It will take a few passes to break through the exposed film. The finer the detail, the longer it may take. The exposed film will continually get lighter and lighter in the blue areas before breaking through. If this is not happening, it's likely due to one of the items mentioned above. |
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| HOW DEEP CAN I ETCH INTO MY GLASS WITH RAPIDMASK? |
RapidMask HT – up to 1/8” blast depth (depending on artwork)
RapidMask HD – surface etch only. RapidMask HD is designed for halftones and light etching only.
Sandblasting pressure, grit size, and blasting technique all play a role in how much depth you can achieve. |
| MASK REMOVAL |
| Question |
Answer - Try the following |
| WHAT IS THE EASIEST WAY TO REMOVE RAPIDMASK AFTER SANDCARVING? |
The easiest way to remove RapidMask is to soak in warm/hot wter. Another option is to peel or rub off the mask while rinsing under warm water to prevent scratching of the substrate. |